This weekend, Ace and I visited the Monterey Bay Aquarium. I haven't been there in at least ten years, and I think they've done any number of renovations since then, so I didn't know what all would be there. Didn't they used to have a great white shark? Maybe that's what I remember. I was, however, under the distinct impression that it had won all kinds of plaudits and was one of the Great Aquariums of the World. And I do remember thinking, ten years ago, that it was pretty great.
I was also under the impression that it was, like, $40 per person, which is wicked expensive, but for a once-every-ten-years treat, I guessed maybe $4 a year for ten years of memories might be reasonable if they were really awesome memories. I also reminded myself that the aquarium had a big conservation mission, and that most of my admission probably went towards that. Still, for $40 I was expecting some pretty awesome sea lion acts, if you know what I mean.
So I was excited! I started poking Ace in the arm as he made the 2 hour drive.
"Will there be Shamu?"
"Isn't he at Sea World?"
"Will there be Nemo?"
"No, but you might see some of his relatives."
"Will there be sea otters?"
"Uh-huh."
"Will there be electric eels?"
"Yep."
"Will there be jellyfish?"
"Probably."
"Will there be sharks?"
"Yes."
"Will there be octopuses?"
"Mm-hmm."
"Will there be starfish?"
"Sure."
"Will there be dolphins?"
"They shot all the dolphins."
"..."
"C'mon, ask me another one."
Highway 1 into Monterey (or whatever street that is you turn onto) was jay-ummed. Signs directed you towards the aquarium, but orange traffic barriers annouced that parking at the aquarium was full and to park at the lot in town. We passed two $5 parking lots in town, both of which had barriers announcing "FULL." So we ended up parking on the street just a few blocks away from the lots. For free. We kicked that parking lot's ass. The parking lot was all, "C'mon, park here, I'll make space." And we're all, "Uh-uh." And the parking lot was like, "Three dollars?" And we're like, "Whatever."
We followed the signs towards the aquarium, and followed them, and followed them. It was at least a two mile walk! You know, which, maybe doesn't sound so far when I say it like that, but when you keep thinking it's just in this next block here...and half an hour later still haven't reached it...seemed far.
The line for tickets was ridiculously long - it wound around metal fences like a ride at Disneyland. Ace called from the line to see if he could buy tickets by phone so we could walk right in, but to do that you must call a day in advance. But the line moved quickly, we were in it for maybe 20 minutes, during which I managed a pretty adequate manicure and Ace read, then inspected, then memorized the aquarium map.
It ended up being $25 each. I mean, don't get me wrong, that's a lot of dough, but once your expectation is set for $40, $25 seems like an awesome deal.
The quickness with which the ticket sellers moved about 120 people through the line should have given us a clue re what to expect once we got in.
It was a mad house.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows. Does that give you a picture? No? How about this:
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
There was a really peaceful section full of jellyfish cases. Soothing lighting, glowing jellyfish drifting and spiraling, subtle New Age massage music - I was totally mellowing out when suddenly there was this overwhelming smell of garlic bread. I turned, and a tourist was pressing up behind me, licking her fingers, with her tin foil package of food. I sighed and went to look at the deep sea creatures.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
There was a general attitude of selfishness and pushiness that was really unfortunate. You know, the situation where if everybody stood three feet away from the display, everyone would have a good view, but instead one person pushes up to press their nose to the glass, blocking everybody so that then everybody has to push and jostle to see even part of the composition.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Oh, and people's sense of entitlement with their cameras and cameraphones and video recorders. You'd try to peek over someone's head and there'd be a forest of arms trying to get their camera front and center for the best shot. Come on, people. I don't understand why someone takes photos at a zoo or aquarium. That's what National Geographic and Planet Earth and the post cards at the gift shop are for.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Speaking of gift shop, here's me reading a story about a frog called Bea. Or Betty. Or something.
The frogs really enjoyed it.
Anyway, we did manage to see a sliver of everything. They do a lovely job of composing displays - nice framing, making the glass smaller than the case so all you see is fish and a backdrop, no corners of tanks or machinery. And they had several enormous displays - multi story tall ones, 50 yards deep. A kelp forest with waves making them sway back and forth - one of my favorites, incredibly restful.
Sea otters, as charming as you might expect. (But although we were there in time for the feeding, at which time the trainers apparently ask them to do various "tricks," the crush of people was so great we abandoned them for later. And never went back.)
A "petting zoo" - whole areas where you could pet things like starfish and stingrays. Ace tried to get in on the heavy petting action, but the stingrays took one look at thirty-five little outstretched hands and for some reason stayed at the other end of the tank.
Ace's favorite room had potential to be my favorite as well - a dark tunnel with tanks that ran on both sides from floor to ceiling with glowing jellyfish and soft music, and the non-tank walls were entirely mirrored, so the jellyfish seemed to go on forever. It was extraordinarily meditative, almost churchlike. But you couldn't linger. Did I mention?
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Mobs of tourists, wailing babies, children running around and banging on the glass windows.
Truly, this is a lovely place for children - LOTS of things for them to do and see and learn. It's just that the crammed circumstances I think discouraged parents' ability to be closely involved - kids often had to squirm through lots of people to get to the front to see anything, leaving parents stranded in the rear; plus it was maybe overstimulating; plus, again, the vibe was less about cooperative learning and amazement about the fish, and way more an atmosphere of competitively trying to see anything at all so you could check that display off your list. The only solution I could think of would be to have a bouncer like they do at clubs with max. occupancy - you know, two out, two in.
It was a spectacular aquarium, though, and we left exhausted.
Watching the pulpo had made me hungry for seafood, so we stopped at a place on Cannery Row (the walk back towards the car), called Luigi Linguini's (or something similar) that was passing out clam chowder samples. It was a good ploy - we went in.
Fully expecting it to be cheesy, touristy and bland, we were both delighted with our meals. We shared the seafood sampler (deep fried calamari, clams and popcorn shrimp), Ace got grilled salmon and a glass of sangria and I got the chili-lime seafood pasta that was full of fish and scallops and shrimp and mussels and bell peppers (SO! GOOD!) and their white wine flight. (One good ploy leads to another - I now totally want to get one of the wines I tried.)
Their ladies' room was eyebrow-raising, plastered with marriage- and man-hating bumper stickers. I told Ace to avoid the men's room, because I assumed it would be the converse. Naturally, he checked it out immediately. When he came out, I said, "Behind every successful man is a surprised woman."
And he said, "My wife says I don't listen to her. Or something like that."
And I said, "All men are idiots... I married their king."
And he said, "Which came first, the woman or the department store?"
And I said, "When I married Mr. Right, I didn't know his first name was Always."
And he said, "I miss my wife, but my aim is getting better."
And I said, "The shortest sentence is 'I am.'"
And he said, "The longest sentence is 'I do.'"
Anyway, we stepped into and out of a fudge shoppe (too crowded, too expensive), and found there was a trolley we could hop on that took us back to parking. We listened to some doo-wop show on the radio until we crested the Santa Cruz mountains, then hopped and bopped to oldies the rest of the way home.
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